Tuesday, June 29, 2010

So close....

The World Cup for Korea and for the United States has ended.  They ended in the first round of the knockout stage.  While the Korean loss ends the three week party that has been happening here in Seoul, I know the American loss is being greeted with the normal "meh".  The American side failed to live up to expectations again.  However, this time I feel like more people have noticed in the United States, due to the fact we almost didn't qualify.  It's funny how American's won't care about something until they think the team has been robbed.  Honestly, those two horrible ref decisions might just be the best thing to happen to American soccer.  It sparked outrage amongst people who might not have known the World Cup was being held.  It created interest in these men who were playing a good game and yet somehow, due to bad reffing, still not coming away with the victory they deserved.  I can only hope that this World Cup has helped fuel the fire that is starting to grow in America around soccer and the World Cup. 

For the this World Cup and the previous one, I have been on foreign soil.  I have been in countries with glorious Football histories, Germany, Italy, and England.  I have also been in a country that is struggling to create its identity and history.  South Korea has never won the World Cup.  Throughout its history it has only qualified for the knockout stage twice.  The first was in 2002 when they rode maniacal support from their fans as a host nation.  The second time is the current World Cup.  They advanced on foreign soil for the first time ever.  They also did it with a Korean coach at the helm.  In 2002 Gus Hiddink, he of Chelsea and Russia fame. coached the Korean side to the semifinals.  Korea is struggling to place themselves as the powerhouse of Asian football.  They currently are the best team in Asia, but it is very close between themselves and Japan.  Korea's place amongst the elite nations of Football is possibly close at hand.  I expect great things from them at the next few World Cups. 

With that over I guess I should tell you how I spent my last weekend of intense World Cup watching.  In truth, the World Cup had completely screwed up my sleeping schedule.  Do or die games were being played live at 3:00 AM, and I am just crazy enough to wake up and watch.  The final day came on a gloomy Saturday.  Rain was forecast throughout Korea, but that did not stop 50,000 people from gathering at Seoul City Hall.  Amongst those 50,000 were myself and several friends.  We came decked out in red to support the Red Devils (Korea's team nickname).  We arrived three hours early, and there was already 30,000 people sitting on the street.  The party atmosphere was entirely unique.  In the United States you could not find 50,000 people this orderly.  It was ridiculous.  The only time any chaos reigned was when the downpours began about an hour before the game.  Apparently some people forgot to check the forecast and even though the sky was gray and threatening, decided not to purchase a poncho for 1,000 Won (80 cents). 



The party started long before the game, and honestly, had the game started at 3:00 AM the party still would have started in the afternoon.  Luckily the game was held at 11:00 PM.  Uruguay, while good at football, is not a dominant team.  However, the team had just enough to beat Korea 2-1.  It was a great game, and the second goal came on an absolutely brilliant and lucky shot.  The player who made the goal even admitted it was lucky.  He shot the ball across the goal and curved it just enough to hit the upright and in.  It was something to see.  Sadly, it had not be done by a Korean player.  Oh well.  The party was over with the final whistle and the 50,000 fans, now subdued by the loss filed down to the subway to leave. 

I wish I could claim this was the end of my night, but sometimes in Korea, 1 AM is just the beginning.  This was one of those nights because the USA was playing Ghana at 3:30 in the morning.  This match I had to see.  My friends and I filed down onto the subway and began reveling in our American fandom.  Chants of USA echoed up and down the subway, and even an ad-libbed soccer song came out of us.  Of course in true American style it had nothing to do with soccer and more about proclaiming the fact that we were drunk.  Now I feel the need to state that while I was intoxicated, I was not drunk.  Needless to say it was a great subway ride to Hongdae.  We may have annoyed the Koreans a little bit, but I think the fact that all of us were still wearing our Korea gear helped. 

Upon arriving in Hongdae we found a bar that was going to show the America match and sat down to drink and pass the few hours.  Well during that time, Jake was challenged to a rap battle.  Yes, I know what you are thinking.  Rap battle, what is this 8 mile?  Well, honestly the answer is yes.  Jake is an Englishman from Liverpool, and apparently has quite the reputation in Hongdae as a freestyle rapper.  We walked over to Hongdae park, which at 2:45 in the morning was full of young people singing, playing guitar, and drinking.  There was one enterprising Korean who had set up a cocktail bar in the park.  The Korean who challenged Jake had spent a lot of time living in Virginia and spoke fluent English.  The rap battle was interesting to watch, being that this was the first one I had ever experienced.  Jake stumbled some out the gates, but quickly recovered to win the battle.

With the deleted scene from 8 Mile over we headed back to the bar and sat down to watch the USA game.  I wish I could say things ended well for us, but we fell asleep on defense one too many times.  With the USA out, and it also being 6:00 in the morning I headed back to Central City Bus Terminal.  I was going to catch an early bus back to Seosan.  I arrived back in Seosan at 8:00 in the morning and proceeded to walk to my apt and go to sleep.  The World Cup and all the wonderful things it brought to Korea was over.  It is sad, but I am glad I was here to fully experience it. 

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Seoul Celebration

I feel the need to warn you now that the 2010 World Cup is going to be a running dialog for most of the next month on this blog.  In my last post I tried to explain, probably with very little success, the reason for my enjoyment of the World Cup.  Besides the fact that this is the world's biggest sporting event, the atmosphere, and the pride it creates are second to none in the sporting world.  This weekend marked the start of World Cup.  All the pageantry and hope that marks the open week were on display across the world.  It all started with South Africa feeding off of 85,000 Vuvuzela blowing fans which inspired them to an 1-1 tie with Mexico.  No host nation has ever failed to advance out of the group stage.  Critics point to South Africa potentially being the first nation never to advance.



After the first day which saw little notable matches (except for every match played), my true experience began for the first time.  When I last experienced the World Cup I was an outsider marveled by everything.  This time, I know how important this is, and I know just how much it means to the countries playing.  Saturday June 12, 2010 is a day that I will remember for a long time.  Myself, along with several of my friends found our way up to Seoul.  We were determined to experience the World Cup in a way that many of us never have been able to before.  We went ready to cheer for South Korea, our adopted home.  Across the country Koreans assembled in public spaces to cheer for their country.  Everywhere you went in the country the game was being displayed.  If there was school during the game, they would have stopped teaching so everyone could watch the game.



In Seoul, the largest street parties could be found to watch the game.  All across the city, even in the stadiums people were gathering to watch the game.  The two largest street gatherings were located at Seoul City Hall and COEX mall.  At Seoul City Hall 40,000 people gathered to watch the game in a drizzling rain.  At COEX mall there was probably 30,000 people in the rain.  My friends arrived at COEX about an hour before the game an in a steady downpour of rain.  After purchasing a few parkas we meandered out to find a screen to watch the game.  All over the street different companies had set up huge HD televisions to watch the game.  We chose one television set up and procured our spot to watch the game from.  Now, normally in the United States the people would stand and watch the screen.  However, this being Asia, we were in for a special treat, sitting.  The reason I call this a special treat is because the screens were set up on a closed road much like a street fair.  It was just expected that everyone would show up and sit down to watch the game.  Now normally I'm not to wary about sitting on the ground, but when you take an asphalt street, add rain, trash, and grime, I'm not super motivated to sit down.  Luckily we were located just at the outer edge and I was able to stand for most of the match.



Once the match started, there was hushed anticipation across the crowd.  This was their countries first match, and the expectations were exceptionally high.  Then 7 minutes in, South Korea stuck for a goal against Greece.  The sheer sound of cheering was deafening.  I have been in stadiums of 60,000+ people cheering for a game winning homerun or touchdown.  They held nothing to the sheer elation of a goal scored halfway across the world.  It was amazing.  The rest of the first half went on with moments of joy, panic, and near ecstasy.  The spectrum of emotion on display was quite fascinating.  When the whistle blew for the start of the second half, the Koreans were ready to continue cheering for their team.  Chants of DaeHan MinGuk reverberated throughout the air.  Then suddenly Park Ji Sung, the captian/national soccer hero of Korea, stole the ball and struck it home for a second goal.  The sound was deafening.  Take the winning shot in an world championship, and maybe you'll come close to the sound of an entire nation screaming their heads off.  They were ecstatic, and nothing was going to stop Korea.  As the game wound down and finally ended, the party truly began.  Songs of celebration and parties sprung up simultaneously across the country.  People were driving around cheering and chanting and everywhere people were in the mood to party.

Monday, June 7, 2010

The Biggest Sporting Event.

In the United States, we very often claim that we have the biggest sporting events in the world outside of the Olympics.  Even with the Olympics some think that the Super Bowl is still a larger event.  However, this view, while prevalent in the United States, is also entirely an ethnocentric view.  No offense America, but it's true.  I used to be one of the people who thought that the Super Bowl was watched across the world.  I used to think that the same mentality we approached Super Bowl Sunday with was replicated across the civilized world with us.  However, having spent the last two Super Bowls in a foreign land, I have come to realize the error of my ways.  The Super Bowl, even the one two years ago that Hines Ward (Korean-American and a Korean hero of sorts) played in was not that important.  It was broadcast, but it wasn't important.

Enter an event that happens every 4 years except in America.  Well, ok, it happens in America too, it's just that almost nobody notices it.  The World Cup, is truly the largest sporting event in the world.  Entire countries come to a standstill for the qualifying  rounds.  Civil wars in Africa are suspended until their countries team is eliminated.  Sorry Football, but you've got nothing on the World Cup.  I will be one of the first people to admit that for the longest time I didn't understand the World Cup.  It was soccer, who cared about soccer.  Who in America even played soccer?  David Beckham in all his manly glory couldn't even get America to care about soccer.

All of that changed in the summer of 2006.  After graduation my friend John and I found ourselves on a plane bound for Europe.  We found ourselves in Berlin on week before the 2006 World Cup kicked off.  The World Cup which Germany just happened to be hosting.  A week before the World Cup, and the excitement in the air around Germany was palpable.  Everywhere you looked you saw signs, fans, and soccer stuff.  However, even this was not enough to make me respect soccer.  It was Italy, more importantly, it was Florence that finally sold me on how huge soccer was.  I was in Italy for two weeks of their magical (see dive) run in the world cup. 

Every place in Italy was cheering their heads off.  I saw entire cities mobilized to cheer for a team that wasn't even playing in the same country that night.  The entire city of Florence shut down for a game.  After Italy won there was a city wide celebration.  This game wasn't the final, it was just another game, and still after the victory, the entire city celebrated.  Every park was full of huge projections of the game and lots of cheering fans.  It was a sight to behold.  After returning to America I realized just how important soccer is to the rest of the world.  I saw the sheer ecstasy of a win, and the utter-disillusionment of a loss.  It was one entire month of Super Bowls.  Every nation cheered for their team with passion reserved for only the die-hard fans of America.  Instead of one crazy cheesehead, it was millions.

This year, the World Cup has found its way to South Africa.  This is the first time that the World Cup has ever been held in Africa.  Yet, I find myself here in South Korea.  South Korea, which, just happens to have probably the best Asian team in the tournament.  The expectations here are huge.  In 2002 South Korea made an improbable run to the semi-finals.  I think it should also be mentioned that South Korea co-hosted the World Cup in 2002 with Japan.  In 2006 South Korea failed to make it out of the group stage (1st round).  This year, thanks in part to being placed in one of the easier groups, the expectations are that South Korea emerges from the group stage.  Not only are the expected to advance past the group stage, they are expected to win a few games once they get there also.  Anything less would be a huge disappointment.  South Korean fans are also fanatical when it comes to the World Cup.  In Seoul, there will be several parties where people will gather outside to watch the world cup.  Some of these parties will have more then 50,000 people in attendance.  No, I'm not making this up.  Still don't believe me.  Watch the video.

I for one, seek to embrace this rare chance to participate in the World Cup.  I find myself in a country that cares about it, and I have an adopted team to root for.  While I will always root for the United States to do well, I will be cheering for South Korea.  Here is to World Cup fever.