Monday, August 15, 2011

Baguio, Banuae, Batad, Vigan

The Philippines.  What can I really say about it that hasn't probably been said a million times before.  The country is lush and green, and seriously humid.  The heat attacks you the second you walk off the plane.  Outside the airport, chaos reigns.  Taxi drivers jostle for fares, drivers cut each other off, and everywhere the exhaust seems to seep into your skin.  Welcome to Manila.  A city I spent only a few hours in and honestly, while I want to go back to visit a few things, I think it will destroy my concept of the Philippines.

For those that don't know I have been spending my time north of Manila.  I started off in Baguio.  Baguio is an old US military resort city built in the early 1900's.  It is nestled amongst the mountains and is, for a tropical country, surprisingly cool.  The high was only about 75-80 degrees and the humidity was almost non-existent.  I arrived at the bus terminal and met up with Hana.  We headed back to her hotel so I could get a shower and wash the airport, airplane, and bus ride off of me.  After that we grabbed dinner at Camp John Hay (old US military base).  We spent the next day exploring Baguio and viewing a couple of its sites.  Baguio is a crowded polluted version of an American alpine town.  Take Big Bear, but give it a population of 200,000.  Add on top of this countless exhaust belching vehicles and you have an idea of what this city is like.  The biggest shame is that this city is very pretty, and surrounded by beautiful nature, however the air is really polluted.

We left the next day for Banuae and the Ilfuago rice terraces.  These small towns in the middle of the Cordillera mountains contain some of the worlds most striking rice terraces.  They were carved from hand about 2000 years ago, and are still being used today.  Banuae is a small town surrounded by terraces.  It was however, a 10 hour bus ride (I thought it was going to be 5 or 6).  We arrived there and after strolling the two main streets found our place to stay for the night.  The town is a small mountain town and it is surrounded by gorgeous rice terraces.  The next day we chartered a jeepney and took a 1 1/2 hour 16 kilometer (10 miles) ride to the Batad saddle.  From here it was an hour hike down the mountain to see Batad.  Batad is quite possibly the 8th wonder of the ancient world.  It is a small town, accessible only by hiking or extreme mountain biking.  The town is surrounded by an amphitheater of terraces.  It was a stunning sight, and the only thing that stopped us from spending more time there was the 10 hour bus ride we had back to Baguio that night.  I have already decided that the next time I find myself north of Manila, I am headed back here to do this place right.  I think 5 or 6 nights, with no plans and tons of trekking will do a body and soul good.

After waking up in Baguio again we hopped a bus up to Vigan.  Vigan is an excellent example of the Spanish colonial style that used to exist everywhere in the Philippines.  Unfortunately most of it was destroyed by either the Japanese or the Americans during World War Two.  It turns out that carpet bombing doesn't do a lot of nice things to historic sites.  Somehow, though, Vigan was spared.  To that extent the old Mestizo district is lined with Spanish era colonial style homes.  They are crumbling and ill maintained, but that just adds to the experience.  Here we visited a traditional weaving factory, a clay pot factory, a zoo (I touched a tiger), and a garden.  The city is gorgeous, and everywhere I go I keep being surprised by just how pretty it is and could be if it was immaculately maintained.  I can only imagine that this is what old Manila used to look like.

Tomorrow we head up to the beach at Pagudpud to relax for three days and then head back to Korea.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Hong Kong.....Wow

By now, most people who know me or who read this blog know that I love to travel.  They also know that I find places where cultures have been forced together for many generations to be exceptionally interesting.  It was with this in mind that I chose to start my summer vacation in Hong Kong.  After spending about four hours camped out in the Manila airport, I arrive on Sunday morning in Hong Kong.  As I walked out of the airport the first thing I did was walk to a 7-11 to grab a quick snack and a drink.  It was here that I realized Hong Kong was going to be different from anywhere else I'd been in Asia.  I hadn't even left the airport and I already had realized this.  Why you may ask.  Well quite simply because they had Arizona Iced Tea.  I have not seen or drank that in three years.  I am being totally honest when I say that I have not seen it anywhere in Asia, but here in Hong Kong, it's everywhere.  If you were to keep your eyes at street level the whole time you were here you would have no idea you were in Asia.  You would think you were walking around Chinatown in London.  The streets are identical to London in names,style,and noise.  However, once you gaze skyward you realize you are in the heart of Asia, and China to be more exact.

While I know this is a sore point for some in Hong Kong, the simple fact is, that this place is everything China hopes to become.  It is fast, modern, western, rich, but still holds fast to tradition and family.  There is no concept of communism here, except for the fact that the Chinese army is here.  Everything else is free market capitalism.  Everywhere you go there are bankers, stock brokers, tourists, and shops.  If China is to be the world power of the future, it will have to model itself on what they have in Hong Kong.  Here, the culture is free of oppression and corruption.  Here is where people want to do business. 

Now that I have finished with the required government propaganda (joke), I guess I should get back to how my three days here have gone.  After exiting the bus in the middle of Kowolon, I sauntered off in the hot and humid weather to attempt to find my guesthouse.  After finding the building and then walking out of it because I couldn't find my block, I finally found my way back to the building and to my guesthouse.  I was lost, I admit it, but I eventually found where I needed to be.  After climbing into the British style midget elevator (anyone who has ever been in a lift in London will know what I mean), I walked into my guesthouse several hours early, but grateful to be free of my backpack.  Luckily my room was open and they checked me in early.  My room, however is honestly hysterical.  I have never seen a room this small.  Honestly there is a walkway for me to my bed, and the rest is all walls and bathroom.  I understand this is Hong Kong, but I think most prisoners have more space in their cells then I do in my room.  Ohh well, I didn't come to Hong Kong to sleep all day.

After taking a nap (I had only slept about 2 hours before I got to the guesthouse) I went off to explore and wander Hong Kong.  I started exploring Kowolon (the district across from Hong Kong island).  I went on a several hour self guided walking tour that included most all the sites in Kowolon.  It was hot and humid, but not miserable.  Also every indoors place had deliciously cool air conditioning and whenever I got too hot I could cool off by pretending to shop.  After several hours I found myself down on the waterfront looking at the Hong Kong skyline.  It is stunning.  I walked the avenue of the stars which is a walk along the water front with statues and stars for all the famous Hong Kong actors.  Later that night I headed back to my guesthouse to catch up on some much needed sleep. 

The next day I hopped across the bay and explored Hong Kong island.  This is the commercial heart of Hong Kong.  It is also the location of all the government offices and Victoria Peak.  I took an old tram up to the top of the peak and was greeted by an epic view of most all of Hong Kong.  After walking around I headed into the tower for lunch.  I'm not ashamed to say I ate at a Bubba Gump Shrimp Factory.  Not because I think the food there is awesome (it's ok) but because I needed a slice of home, and this place offered it the best.  After lunch I wandered into Madam Tussuad's.  It is creepy just how life like some of these wax figures are.  However, I think the highlight of the whole tour was a statue of GW Bush, Obama, and Clinton.  While this wasn't the highlight, the fact that the next closest figures were Gandhi, Hitler, and Hussein made me laugh a little bit.  Mao was on the other side of the wall, and while I think he should have been between Hitler and Hussein, this is part of China and I don't think they'd appreciate it. 

After leaving the tower I explored Hong Kong island some more and eventually, once again made my way back to my guesthouse to sleep.  Today started off much the same as it has every other day here.  I chose a island to visit, this time Lantau island.  Here I took a cable car to Ngong Ping and visited a giant sitting Buddha, and a monastery.  It is also where I purchased some awesome Chinese pork jerky.  Sorry folks, it's not going to make it back, being as it's already being digested.  After exploring Lantau I headed back to Kowolon to explore a little bit more and then finally ended up here, at an internet cafe writing to you.  Pictures will get posted eventually, but I think you might have to wait until I get back to Korea.  Tomorrow I head off to Baguio in the Philippines to explore the northern parts of Luzon.  I don't know how much access I will have to the internet so I wish you all a great few days and I will check back in with you soon.